WP3406107 / 3406107 Dryer Door Switch

Key Features

• Critical Safety Interlock: Engineered as the primary safety mechanism that immediately cuts power to the dryer motor when the door is opened, preventing accidental injury during operation.
• 3-Terminal Electrical Configuration: Features a specialized three-wire design that manages both the motor start circuit and the internal drum light circuit (for models equipped with lighting).
• High-Impact Heat-Stabilized Housing: Manufactured from a premium, non-conductive polymer designed to maintain structural integrity and electrical insulation in the high-vibration and high-temperature environment of the dryer front bulkhead.
• Reinforced Lever-Actuator: Equipped with a high-durability internal spring and plunger mechanism designed for thousands of open-and-close cycles without mechanical fatigue.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• Primary Part: WP3406107, 3406107.
• Industry Standards: AP6008561, PS11741701, EAP11741701.
• Legacy Cross-Reference: 3406109, 3405100, 3405101, 3406100, 3406101, 3406107VP.

Compatibility & Fitment

This door switch is the standard safety component for virtually all top-lint-filter dryers produced by Whirlpool. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Maytag: Fits hundreds of models including MEDC400VW0, AED4475TQ1, and the Centennial, Bravos, and Duet series.
• Kenmore (110 Series): Compatible with the vast majority of 110-prefix models produced by Whirlpool for Sears (e.g., 110.60022010).
• Amana, Roper, & Estate: Direct fit for NED, NGD, and RED series budget-friendly dryers.
• KitchenAid & Crosley: Fits various KEDS and CDE series units utilizing the 3-terminal door switch style.
• Note: This switch is typically located on the Front Bulkhead or Top Panel near the door opening. Ensure your original switch has three terminals before ordering.

When to Replace

• Dryer Won't Start: The most common symptom—you press the start button and hear nothing. If the switch fails in the "open" position, the motor circuit cannot be completed.
• Dryer Runs with Door Open: **EXTREMELY UNSAFE:** The switch has failed in the "closed" position, allowing the drum to spin even when the door is opened. Replace immediately.
• Drum Light Won't Turn On/Off: If the motor runs but the light stays on constantly (or never turns on), the internal contact for the light circuit has failed.
• Broken Plunger: The white plastic lever that is pushed by the door has snapped off, making it impossible for the door to actuate the switch.
• Continuity Test Failure: Use a multimeter to test terminals. One pair should show continuity only when the plunger is pressed; the other should show continuity only when the plunger is released.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: You MUST unplug the dryer. This repair requires accessing the internal wiring behind the front panel or top console.
• The "Photo" Rule: Since there are three wires (typically white, blue, and black/gray), take a clear photo of the original wiring before disconnecting to ensure you don't cross the motor and light circuits.
• Accessing the Switch: On most models, you must remove the lint filter and pop the top panel with a putty knife. The switch is held in by two screws or snap-tabs on the front bulkhead.
• Check the Door Strike: Inspect the plastic **Door Strike** on the door itself. If the strike is broken or bent, it won't be able to push the switch plunger far enough to engage the contacts.
• Terminal Transfer: Use needle-nose pliers to move the wires one at a time. If the wire connectors are loose, gently squeeze the female spade connectors for a tighter, safer connection.