W10445975 / WPW10445975 Dishwasher Circulation Pump Connector Hose

Key Features

• High-Flex EPDM Rubber: Manufactured from premium, heat-stabilized EPDM rubber designed to withstand the intense thermal cycling of "Sani-Rinse" and "Heated Dry" cycles without losing its elasticity or cracking.
• Vibration-Damping Design: Engineered with a specialized wall thickness that absorbs the mechanical vibrations of the circulation motor, preventing structural fatigue and reducing noise during the wash cycle.
• Enhanced Chemical Resistance: 100% resistant to the caustic enzymes, high-pH surfactants, and bleach-based sanitizers found in modern dishwasher detergent pods.
• Dual-Ribbed Sealing Interface: Features a reinforced internal ribbing system that provides multiple contact points with the pump and sump ports, ensuring a permanent, watertight seal even under high water pressure.
• Complete Installation Kit: Includes two pre-installed, corrosion-resistant spring clamps, providing the consistent 360-degree tension required to prevent "blow-offs" during heavy-duty wash cycles.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• Primary Parts: W10445975, WPW10445975.
• Industry Standards: AP5618621, PS3651318.

Compatibility & Fitment

This connector hose is the standard bridge between the circulation pump and the sump assembly for most Whirlpool-manufactured dishwashers produced since 2012. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Maytag: Fits hundreds of WDT, WDF, and MDB series models (e.g., WDT720PADM, MDB4949SHZ, WDF520PADM).
• KitchenAid & Jenn-Air: Compatible with various KDTM, KDTE, and JDB series units (e.g., KDTM354ESS, KDTE104ESS).
• Kenmore (665 Series): Fits many 665-prefix "Elite" and standard dishwashers (e.g., 665.13263K311, 665.13293K116).
• Amana, Ikea, & Roper: Direct fit for ADB and IUD series models utilizing the W10445975 style.
• Note: This is the Sump-to-Pump Hose. It is located at the very bottom of the unit, connecting the main circulation motor to the plastic sump housing.

When to Replace

• Water Leaking from Bottom Center: Puddles forming on the floor directly beneath the middle of the dishwasher, typically occurring during the wash (circulation) phase.
• "F8 E1" or "i10" Error Codes: If this hose has a major crack, the pump cannot maintain pressure, leading to water level errors or "Low Flow" detection by the control board.
• Visible Cracks or "Gooey" Rubber: Upon inspection, the hose looks swollen, feels soft/sticky, or shows visible hairline fractures (often caused by excessive rinse aid or detergent use).
• Pump Motor Runs, but No Spray: If the hose has collapsed or is severely obstructed, the motor will hum, but water will not be delivered to the spray arms.
• Detergent Buildup on Sump: Visible white mineral scale or detergent "trails" around the pump-to-sump connection point.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: You MUST unplug the dishwasher or turn off the circuit breaker. This repair requires accessing the high-voltage motor area beneath the tub.
• Access the Hose: Remove the lower kickplate. In many cases, it is easiest to uninstall the dishwasher and lay it on its back (place a towel down to catch residual water).
• The "Soapy Water" Trick: Apply a drop of liquid dish soap to the inner rim of the new hose. This allows it to slide onto the plastic pump and sump ports much easier without tearing the rubber.
• Clamp Placement: Use pliers to position the spring clamps at least 1/4 inch away from the edge of the hose. If the clamp is too close to the edge, it can cause the hose to "mushroom" and leak.
• Check the Pump: While the hose is off, check the **Circulation Pump Impeller** for debris like toothpicks, glass, or seeds that may have caused the initial pressure buildup and hose failure.