W10258275 661663 Dishwasher Bimetal Thermal Fuse

Key Features

• High-Precision Bimetal Sensor: Engineered with a sensitive internal bimetallic disk that acts as a primary safety cut-off, permanently breaking the electrical circuit if the dishwasher's internal temperatures exceed safe operating limits.
• Critical Fire Prevention: Designed to protect the main control board and internal wiring from overheating caused by a stuck heating element, shorted motor, or faulty temperature sensor.
• High-Temperature Ceramic Housing: Features a durable, heat-resistant housing designed to maintain structural integrity even during intense "Sani-Rinse" and "High-Temp Wash" cycles.
• Gold-Plated Electrical Terminals: Includes high-conductivity male spade terminals designed to resist oxidation and provide a low-resistance connection for the 120V line voltage.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• Primary Parts: W10258275, 661663.
• Industry Standards: AP4423189, PS2360984.
• Legacy Codes: AH2360984, EA2360984.

Compatibility & Fitment

This bimetal thermal fuse is the standard safety replacement for many older Whirlpool-manufactured dishwashers produced between 1995 and 2010. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Maytag: Fits hundreds of DU, DP, GU, and MDB series models (e.g., DU810SWPQ, MDB4000AWB).
• Kenmore (665 Series): Compatible with various 665-prefix "Ultra Wash" and standard dishwashers (e.g., 665.13263K311, 665.1573291).
• KitchenAid & Jenn-Air: Fits many KUDI, KUDL, and JDT series units utilizing the 661663 fuse style.
• Amana, Roper, & Estate: Direct fit for dozens of ADB and DU series models utilizing this specific safety fuse.
• Note: This fuse is typically located at the Bottom of the Sump Housing or on the Side of the Tub near the heating element terminals.

When to Replace

• No Power / Dead Unit: The dishwasher is plugged in and the breaker is on, but there is no power to the controls and the machine will not respond to any buttons.
• Cycle Stops Mid-Wash: The dishwasher stops abruptly during the heat-intensive portions of the wash cycle and will not turn back on.
• Visible Heat Damage: Upon inspection, the fuse housing or the wire connectors look discolored, charred, or melted.
• Continuity Test Failure: Using a multimeter, the fuse shows "Open" (no continuity), indicating it has tripped to prevent a thermal event.
• Stuck Heating Element: If your dishwasher water is boiling hot or you smell burning plastic, the fuse may have tripped because the heating element failed to shut off.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: You MUST unplug the dishwasher or turn off the circuit breaker. This repair involves working directly with 120V line voltage beneath the unit.
• Access the Fuse: On most models, you must remove the lower kickplate (toe kick) to access the wiring on the side of the sump or tub. On some models, it is located behind the control panel.
• Check the Terminals: When replacing the fuse, inspect the female wire connectors. If they are loose or discolored, they must be cleaned or replaced to prevent high-resistance heat from blowing the new fuse.
• Verify Mounting: Ensure the fuse is mounted flush against the metal tub or sump surface. The bimetal sensor relies on direct physical contact to accurately monitor the dishwasher's temperature.
• Test the Heating Element: After replacing the fuse, check the **Heating Element** with a multimeter. A grounded or shorted heating element is the most common reason these safety fuses trip.