2198202 Refrigerator Cold Control Thermostat

Key Features

• Precision Temperature Sensing: Equipped with a 38-inch copper capillary tube (sensor lead) that monitors internal air temperature with high sensitivity to ensure the compressor cycles at exact set points.
• Heavy-Duty Mechanical Switch: Features a robust internal contact mechanism designed to handle the inductive load of refrigerator compressors, preventing contact pitting and extending the service life of the control.
• Wide Operating Range: Calibrated to manage temperatures typically ranging from 0°F to 50°F, allowing for precise adjustments from deep cooling to standard fresh-food storage levels.
• Dual-Voltage Capability: Rated for use in both 125V and 250V AC systems at 50/60Hz, making it a versatile replacement for a vast array of domestic and international Whirlpool-built models.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• Primary Part Number: 2198202.
• Cross-References: WP2198202, 2161284, 2198201, PS11739232, AP6006166, 1110552, 1115242.
• Additional Replacements: 1115243, 1115244, 1115245, 1129437, 2161283, 2169112, 2169113, 99989726, WP2198202VP, AP3037004, PS329884, AH329884, EA329884.

Compatibility & Fitment

This thermostat is a high-volume component used across nearly all brands manufactured by Whirlpool Corporation. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Kenmore: Fits thousands of side-by-side models (e.g., 106-prefix, ED5, GD5, and GS6 series).
• KitchenAid & Maytag: Compatible with premium built-in and freestanding units produced after the brand integrations.
• Amana, Roper, & Estate: Direct replacement for most mechanical control models in these value-tier brands.
• Additional Brands: Fits Crosley, Inglis, Admiral, Jenn-Air, and Magic Chef refrigerators.
• Note: This control is typically located inside the control console at the top of the refrigerator compartment, behind the temperature adjustment knob.

When to Replace

• Fridge Too Cold / Freezing Food: The thermostat contacts are "stuck closed," causing the compressor to run constantly and drop temperatures below freezing in the fresh food section.
• Refrigerator Won't Start: The internal switch has failed in the "open" position; the lights and fans may work, but the compressor never receives the signal to turn on.
• Fridge Too Warm: The thermostat is failing to cycle the compressor on soon enough, allowing internal temperatures to rise into the "danger zone" for food safety.
• Erratic Cycling: The refrigerator turns on and off too frequently (short-cycling) or stays off for extended periods regardless of the knob setting.
• Compressor Fan Not Working: On many models, this thermostat controls the evaporator fan as well; if neither the compressor nor the fan is engaging, this part is the primary suspect.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: CRITICAL: Unplug the refrigerator from the power source before beginning. You will be handling exposed electrical terminals.
• Transfer the Sleeve: PRO TIP: Your old thermostat sensor tube likely has a clear or white plastic insulating sleeve. You MUST slide this sleeve off the old tube and onto the new one. Without this sleeve, the sensor can touch metal parts and cause the fridge to cycle incorrectly.
• Handle with Care: IMPORTANT: Do not kink or sharply bend the copper capillary tube. It contains a pressurized gas; if the tube is kinked or broken, the thermostat will be permanently ruined. Use wide, gentle loops when routing.
• Wiring Reference: Take a clear photo of the wire connections before removing the old part. While the terminals are standard, the wire colors can vary between models.
• Sensor Placement: Ensure the tip of the new sensor tube is inserted fully into its original mounting clip or guide. If the tip is not positioned correctly, it won't "read" the air temperature accurately.